On a cool and cloudless November morning, kindergarten teacher Kamala makes her way along the deserted road in the growing light of dawn. As the first bright sunrays reflect across her ebony hair, the only sounds piercing the morning hush are a few cocks crowing and the occasional roar of a passing motorcycle. Today Kamala rose earlier than her usual five o’clock hour to prepare fresh rice for the passing monks.

Each morning, in cities and villages across Thailand, groups of monks leave the refuge of their temples just as the sun rises. Encased in flowing saffron robes designed to shield them from outer defilements, the monks extend their rice bowls to receive offerings of food. Many devout Buddhist women, including Kamala with her steaming basket of sticky rice, position themselves along the monks’ route. As the monks approach, the women slip out of their shoes, bow their heads respectfully, and drop food offerings into the metal alms bowls.

Monks in Thailand are completely supported by the public. They receive their daily food by wandering through streets and alleyways. The bronze-hued canisters they carry are not considered begging bowls, since Buddhist monks do not “beg.” Instead, by accepting alms from people, the monks provide an opportunity for Buddhists to demonstrate generosity, compassion, and selflessness which is believed to enhance their position in future reincarnations. “Merit making” is a central element of Thai life, especially important to Kamala on this day which marks her birthday. Though monks are not allowed to say “thank you,” they chant blessings upon each of their kindhearted benefactors. Today, Kamala dishes out her rice and gratefully receives the monks’ prayers for a prosperous year filled with good fortune.

As she returns from her solitary errand of merit making, her husband and daughter are just beginning to stir from a deep slumber. Kamala greets each one with a pleasant, “Sawat dee ka” (universal Thai greeting), before she catches a glimpse of a brightly packaged box sitting in one corner of the room. The sight fills her with joy as she recognizes that her family has prepared a special birthday gift with a homemade card from her little girl. The parcel is beautifully decorated with an elaborate bow since attractive wrapping is extremely important to gift giving in Thailand. Generally, gifts are never opened in front of the giver to ensure that no one is disappointed or “loses face” in the exchange.

For her daughter’s birthday each year, Kamala usually purchases birds in a tiny bamboo cage or small goldfish contained in a clear plastic bag. The number of creatures bought must equal one more than the child’s age, to ensure good luck for the coming year. Tradition requires that the animals be sprinkled with “holy water” by the monks and then set free into the air or open water. The act of releasing these small captive creatures is meant to please the gods and make merit for the entire family.

Kamala lives with her family in a multistory row house on the outskirts of the city. The prevalent three-story “shop-house” construction provides room for a small business on the ground level with sleeping quarters above. At the back of her husband’s print shop, Kamala has partitioned off a small living space with a TV and ground level eating area. A narrow staircase leads upward from the shop to reveal two bedrooms and a large open storage area. The shop-house next door to Kamala sells books and school supplies. Farther down the block are a hair salon, a cake shop, and several other family stores bursting with eclectic inventories of plastic containers, handmade brooms, and colorful silks.

Shop-houses in Thailand are almost always built facing the main street, with upper floors displaying louvered wooden shutters and tall rounded windows that peer across slender balconies. Often little more than eight feet wide, shop-houses are designed according to the principles of feng shui (literally “wind/water”). Feng shui is an ancient Chinese system of aesthetics that promotes positive qi (cosmic breath or energy) in an effort to improve quality of life. Specifically focused on arranging material objects according to the forces of the universe, the influence of feng shui is readily apparent throughout Thailand.

In Kamala’s home this ancient practice guides her in the selection and placement of furniture designed to harmoniously integrate with the building. She and her husband firmly believe that improper positioning of items within their home might open the door to poverty or disease. On the other hand, a balanced arrangement should bring good luck to everyone living in the household. Hanging above the front sliding-door entrance swings an assortment of charms and amulets carefully positioned to deflect bad spirits. Stretching across the family’s living area, a large bamboo screen serves the dual purpose of providing privacy and guarding against any negative forces that might try to enter.

Another central feature of Kamala’s shop-house, which mirrors other homes and businesses across Thailand, is a prominently displayed portrait of the King. Thai people are fiercely patriotic and proud of their nation which boasts the distinction of being the only country in Southeast Asia to escape Western colonization. Thais constantly display a deep worshipful reverence for their monarch. Many cling to a belief in the King’s supernatural ability to bring prosperity on all who pay him respect. Directly adjacent to Kamala’s royal portrait hangs the three-colored Thai flag which symbolizes the nation (red bands), the religion (white bands), and the monarchy (blue band). The broad size of the blue band, which covers the entire middle section of the flag’s area, is a visible reminder of the vital place the monarchy holds in Thai society.