Wednesday, August 1st
Netanya to Jerusalem - 105.71 Km
Todays ride was one of the toughest so far. The rides to Granada, Spain and Potenza, Italy may have been steeper, but not by much. The day started out innocently as the first 50 Km paralleled the coast on Route 4. Then, I turned inland through Ramla, home of Joseph of Arimathea (dont ask). Near Latrun I got onto Route 1 and began the real work. Route 1, as the number implies, carries more than its fair share of traffic. Along some stretches there is no shoulder. There are almost no services along the last 20 Km into Jerusalem. And, its almost all uphill. Two Km from the city I hit the wall. I had no water left, and just a few cookies. I sat by the side of the road eating the cookies, hoping to regain some strength for the final push. It took about 20 minutes to recover. Eventually, I made it to Zion Square in West Jerusalem. I rested the bike against the wall of the Kaplan Hotel just off of the Square and ran inside to request a room. Sixty seconds later, when I went outside to retrieve the bike, a crowd had formed across the street. They thought that the fully loaded bike could have been a bomb, and they let me know it. Sufficiently chastised, I apologized for the security breach and then took the bike into the hotel.

People come to Jerusalem to be closer to God. I think the altitude has a lot to do with that. Its not heaven, but you can reach it from here.

Thursday, August 2nd
Jerusalem - 0 Km
I walked around the Old City of Jerusalem today. On the way to the Jaffa Gate I stopped at the Amex office and picked up a package from home that included a new Visa card, $100 cash, and my elusive U.S. passport. Then, I passed through the traditional pilgrims gate into Jerusalem. The guides and independent salesmen were waiting inside the gate to pounce, just as I imagine they were centuries ago. Theyre a persistent lot. They try to engage you in a conversation, find your weakness, and then go in for the kill. The trick to getting away from these guys is to keep moving and to volunteer no personal information. Revealing so much as your name could lead to the purchase of a huge stuffed camel doll.

The Old City is divided into the Christian, Muslim, Jewish, and Jehovahs Witness quarters. I could be wrong about that last one. Anyway, I wandered through all four. Its a bit of a sensory overload. The sights, sounds, and particularly the smells are very real. This isnt Disneys ReligionLand. The market streets (alleys really) are claustrophobic, scary, and more than a little unhygienic.

I walked most of the Via Dolorosa, one of the main market streets now. I toured the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and the Wailing Wall. I paid a little Muslim boy to guide me to the Dome of the Rock. On the way some elderly Muslim men stopped us and chastised the boy for taking a heathen to see the Dome. They told me that if I wanted to see the Dome I would have to come back when they werent praying, hire a real guide, and convert to Islam. Again, I could be wrong about that last one.

Anyway, it was a successful day of sightseeing. Despite the rising tensions here I was able to walk through all four quarters of the Old City without being harassed. And, you know how militant those Jehovahs Witnesses can be. At the end of the day I returned to my hotel just off of Zion Square (the Fast Food Quarter) where relations between McDonalds, Burger King, and Pizza Hut have never been better.

Friday, August 3rd
Jerusalem - 0 Km
Theres too much of Jerusalem to see in just one day. So, I went sightseeing again. Besides, I still hadnt recovered from the ride up here. I decided to explore outside the walls of the Old City today. There was some trouble last Friday in the Old City. I thought it might be safer outside of the walls. I felt as though I was the only tourist in Israel as I walked the deserted road up to the Mount of Olives. On the way back down I saw that demonstrators praying in the street had blocked one of the major thoroughfares on my right. So, I turned left and walked to the church built over the site of the Last Supper. I finished the day of sightseeing by walking the ramparts of the Old City. It felt bizarre to be walking around Jerusalem with a camcorder and guidebook, while the entire Israeli Army was out there with automatic weapons. While walking from the Garden of Gethsemane to the Tomb of the Virgin Mary, one female soldier armed to the teeth asked, Can I help you? We were standing between two of Christianitys holiest sights, so I couldnt say that I was lost. I just replied, I guess its not a good day to be a tourist. She gave me the all clear signal and I continued on my way, careful not to make any sudden movements. Im sure that my every move was recorded and documented by the security forces. Thank goodness I didnt have to use the public restrooms.